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Onward and Upward!

Updated: Aug 17


Today was the day for a real climb. M and I had hiked up Mt Hoffman about fifteen years ago, and our visit happened to coincide with the completion of the trail up that mountain. At least, that's what the ranger on duty at the summit said at the time. May Lake at left.


We were unimpressed. The trail was rough, rocky, steep, badly graded and the last 100 feet was a scramble up granite boulders. When he told us the trail had just been finished, we thought he was kidding. He wasn't.



But the views from Mt. Hoffman are among the very best in the whole park. And M was game to try it again, if only to see if the trail had been improved at all. So we packed up and headed out. Estelle in front of Cathedral Peak and its neighbors.


It is always a pleasant surprise to hike a mile or so into the back country and find a flush toilet and standpipe, just waiting for you. Those are the luxuries of hiking to the High Sierra Camp at May Lake. But beyond that, the trail climbs up high above the lake, into a lovely if tiny hanging valley. Panorama below.



From there, the fun reallly begins. The trail had not improved over the years. It was, perhaps, even worse than we remembered, wandering between a forest of cairns, and always straight up the side of the mountain. This is one of those rare places where you think, we need some switchbacks here.



But no.


Straight up the side of the west buttress, climbing steeply, then across the high plateau where we had seen scores of marmots last time. This time, nary a one. And then the clamber up granite ledges to the top of the peak. We made the mistake of watching two hikers descend from the summit, and Estelle and I followed their route to the top. Not good. Once M arrived we were able to see there is a much more reasonable route if you stay left, and follow a seam in the granite. Only when you get within thirty feet of the summit should you follow a ledge to the top.


Hoffman's thumb at right.


At every step, you could stop and admite the view. And that's a good thing, because we made lots of stops. And we did see a marmot at the very top, clearly ready to receive any food we would like to donate to the Marmot Preservation Fund. We declined.

We'd also seen an astonishingly fearless grouse on this trail years ago,and sure enough, on the way back down we met two grouse that chuckled and purred like a happy chicken.


This is a great hike. Great views---that cannot be overstated. And marmots, And grouse, And a flush toilet. But it took us longer to hike these 5-6 miles than it took us to hike nearly 9 miles yesterday. And by the time we were down, we were done.


For the full photo log of our trip to Yosemite, including the next day's volunteer work, go here.

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